I have been in a lot of caves. All the major ones in the US and a bunch of others around the world. Thien Duong Cave, better known as Paradise Cave, is 31 km long! Tourists can venture in for the first 1.5 km. This part of the cave has a considerable walkway, and great lighting, the designers of the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park have done a phenomenal job. It’s the best national park infrastructure I’ve seen anyplace in Asia.

They let about ten people a day on a guided trek that goes 7 km into the cave. I was fortunate enough to get a slot. There were only 3 of us! We had an English-speaking guide and a porter. The cave complex is fantastic! There are places inside that feel like a stadium. There are also parts you have to swim through and some tight pass-throughs. And, of course, stalagmites and stalactites galore.

Before starting, they gave us camo uniforms and running shoes to change into. Of the three of us, I was the only one who could fit into the camo, and no one could fit into the shoes. They are not set up for western tourists. The cave was discovered by a local man in 2005. They have been doing tours of it for three years. My advice is to go now. It’s hard to say what it will be like in a decade. The only downside is that it’s costy. 2,600,000 dong ($130).

We started by going through a gate the tourists never get past and walked about 1/4 km. Then the guide had us turn out our lights, and we were in pitch darkness, and there were no sounds at all. It was very cool. If I had my way, I’d set up a rope that could be followed so you could do the whole trek in complete darkness. Though I’m not sure, there are enough weirdos like me to market it to.

We continued for about 3 km and stopped to take everything off but foot gear and swimwear. The wet parts were coming. There’s a strange cultural disconnect for me with the modesty involved. The guides used underwear for swimwear. I guess what happens in the cave stays in the cave.

It was me, an Aussie riding a bicycle through SEA, and a girl from Northern Europe, and when we got in the water, the Aussie was a bit shocked by the temp. I’ve swum in caves before, but not for this long. After walking past all sorts of fascinating formations and getting detailed explanations of how they form, we arrived at our stopping point for lunch. At the 7 km mark, the cave is open to the sky.

It was breathtaking to come around the corner and see daylight shining down on a little valley in the cave. We found a big rock to have lunch on. Lunch was crap, rice, a few pieces of nondescript meat, and an over-ripe banana. After lunch, we went exploring and swimming. There was a shaft of like shining down on a bolder, way up on a ledge. Of course, I had to climb up there and bask in the light.

The trip back was a rocket run. I kept stopping to take more pictures, and the guides tried to hurry us along, which inspired me to take even more pictures. I do not think the guide said two sentences on the way out. The cave is stunning, and it is a must-do if you are anywhere near the central\northern coast of Vietnam!